One of the coolest, ongoing culinary arts programs on Aquidneck Island turned 50 last year, and though Governor McKee and CCRI recently announced the establishment of a new culinary degree to be offered at CCRI, high school students in the Newport Area Career and Technical Center’s culinary program are already way ahead of them. When these 80 students graduate from the four-year, Rogers High School-based course, they’ll walk with RI ServSafe certifications, a well-rounded understanding of the inner and peripheral workings of the hospitality and restaurant industries, and college credits that CCRI will accept for applicants to their new curriculum.
The four-year vocational program is open to students enrolled at six area schools and is designed to mirror the life of a culinary professional. From prepping, cooking, baking, food safety and sustainability, to service, planning, handling money and communications skills, the program’s completion translates to a multitude of opportunities for scholarships and continuing ed, competitions and certifications, and jobs. But before I get into all that good stuff, I have an obligation as your favorite local food blabber to talk to you about what’s coming out of the kitchen at the program’s own Colonial Dining Room at Rogers, open to the public for lunch Wednesday through Friday, varying depending on school schedules, vacations, etc.
My planned visit was to support, and get a feel for the M.O. I expected “A for effort!” I got “OMG.” These students, under the direction of Chef Matt Reilly, Chef Michele LaPaglia and their team, served me one of the top versions of Chicken Milanese I’ve ever had, this one in sandwich form. The beautifully seasoned, crunchy, juicy breaded chicken breast was topped with the freshest greens and sweet, quartered cherry tomatoes dressed in white Balsamic vinaigrette, with pickled shallots and a smattering of capers on a focaccia that was crispy-chewy-pillowy without overwhelming the sandwich with heft. There were fries, nicely crisped, but the sandwich was so mesmerizing, I barely noticed, and every part of it was built in-house.
“Everything is made from scratch,” said Reilly, “from baking a bun to making the mayo. We don’t open a bottle unless it’s ketchup.”
Then there was the bill. $8. On the way out, I bought some killer, $1 chocolate chip cookies and a $1.50 coconut fudge glazed brownie for later. All the food is available to go, or you can opt to have a seat in the dining room, where students serve, host, and manage the register, supervised adeptly by dining room manager Erin Kenny. The operation was impressive.
“Rhode Island has a lot of opportunities for continuing education like Johnson and Wales and the Culinary Institute of America, but this program means students can also go straight into the industry. Our whole goal is to make (all these options) accessible for as many kids as possible,” said Reilly, whose local experience has included stints in the kitchens at Castle Hill, 22 Bowens and Malt.
These relationships mean experts in various fields also take part in the program, lending their knowledge to students on a host of topics, from a seafood 101 presentation by local clambake legend TR McGrath, to fresh pasta-making by Castle Hill food and beverage director Lou Rossi, plus opportunities for internships and summer employment, competitions and more. Reilly points out that the introduction to these pros facilitates the process for students who might otherwise feel awkward about approaching an employer.
“They get face to face time. We’re helping them build a network so they can go out into the world on their own, and tons of restaurants will hire kids straight out of the program.”
Participants in the five-day per week, four-year course are selected through an application accessed via the NACTC’s website. Once accepted, students outside Newport can take a bus from their high school to Rogers.
The newly re-designed school, still under construction, includes plans for the program’s continued success and improvement, with a fully operational, industrial kitchen similar to the one currently used.
“The kitchen will feature five main components: a cooking line, bakery, teaching/demo area, prep area and dish washing area,” said Kenny. “We are very excited to have a combination of existing and new equipment to serve our students and the public. In addition, the building will feature a new dining room with its own public entrance.”
Middletown High School Junior Wayne Chapman was my lunch server. Poised, polite and thoughtful, he told me his plans for the future and how the program has influenced his goals. He said his favorite roles are line cook and front-of-house, and he said he’s pleased that the experience has taught him how to cook and provide good food for his family.
“But I actually want to go to business school,” he said, adding that the program has also taught him “how to run and manage a business, how to deal with customers and statistics, and how to plan out for the future.” Wayne’s going far.
So is college-bound senior Diandra Younge, who was handling the cash register that day. She said she’s pleased with the kitchen and culinary skills she’s acquired, with learning knife skills and the ins and outs of the restaurant business. She’s also developed a new appreciation for the nuances of flavor.
“I can understand how to create dishes from recipes (and) I have ideas as to how to adjust dishes that may not taste like I expect them to taste,” she said. She’s hoping to get a job at a local restaurant this summer to support her upcoming college career.
Subtly eyeing surrounding diners while I enjoyed my lunch, I spied a perfectly medium rare burger at 1:00 and a gorgeous, golden-puffed fish and chips at 3:00. When the latter diner got up to leave, I stopped her to inquire about their choice of lunch spot.
“This is our third time here,” said Doreen Forbes-Rogers and husband Mike Rogers. The newly relocated to Newport are passionate about supporting their adopted community. “We love supporting local, and we love the idea of students trained for a profession. The food has been fabulous, the variety of offerings is outstanding, and we (appreciate) that it’s not free. It’s a great program.”
Meet ya there.
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