Considering that her restaurant will go through 140 lbs. of corned beef between Parade Day and St. Patrick’s Day itself, it’s hard not to chuckle when Malt owner and Dublin, Ireland, native Chelynn Sheehan reminds me, in her delightful brogue, that corned beef—and its origin as a St. Patrick’s Day staple—is not, in fact, Irish.
“For us, it was boiled bacon and cabbage, and that’s what we still have when we go home. I never had corned beef before I came to the States!” she mused.
In fact, the corned beef–St. Patrick’s connection originates with Irish American immigrants of the late 19th century, who cooked it as a substitute for the classic Irish bacon they couldn’t source in the States. So, brisket it was—and when I tell you how much of it this city will go through on Parade Day in Newport alone, you’ll see the transition is complete.
Between Malt, The Hibernian Hall, O’Brien’s Pub, and Busker’s alone, we’re looking at about 2,000 lbs. of corned beef simmering away over the next week, with dozens more jumping on the Paddy wagon as well. That’s a lotta beef.
Corned beef preparation is straightforward, with the flavor emerging through a long, slow braise in water seasoned with a spice mixture of mustard and anise seeds, bay leaves, peppercorns, and coriander—essentially the contents of those spice packets that usually come with this cut. The braise cooks for around an hour per pound, with carrots and potatoes added for the last 45 minutes and cabbage for the final 15. I know I shouldn’t have to tell you to slice the meat against the grain to avoid chewy bites.
After their traditional Irish breakfast service on the morning of the 15th, corned beef dinners, sandwiches, and Reubens will be on the menu at Malt, along with an exciting selection of special Irish whiskeys like Green Spot, Redbreast, Roe & Co., and Blacks—a product of Newport’s sister city, Kinsale, Ireland—through St. Patrick’s Day on Monday. The bar also expects to go through at least five kegs of Guinness over the three-day period.
The Hibernian Hall’s new chef, Mark Poland, plans to cook 400 lbs. of corned beef for their various St. Paddy’s events, while at O’Brien’s Pub down the street, this year’s haul will be 900 lbs., with service of sandwiches, Reubens (which are always on hand), and corned beef lunches and dinners starting on March 12. General Manager Kerry Philbin said the number reflects a huge 2024 turnout.
“Last year, we had the longest line I’ve ever seen in my history at OB’s,” she said. Her Guinness order? 15 half-barrels. “That may go up depending on the weather outlook.”
Cooks like Curtis at Busker’s weave corned beef into nearly all items on their menu year-round, but with Parade Day imminent, they’ll start cooking 100 lbs. per day on Monday, March 10, aiming for a goal of 500 lbs. by Saturday.
Nobody’s skimping. At Speakeasy, Chef Rob Biela is set to cook 40 lbs. for the always-lively crowd, and Tavern on Broadway and Pour Judgement will no doubt have a couple dozen more pounds ready to add to the final weight.
And all that’s before Inked Restaurant Group, which has 150 lbs. on order.
“We brine our own briskets for several days and then slow braise them for hours. Much of the meat gets pulled while still hot, and the braising liquid is added back in for flavor,” he said. The resulting tender meat is ready for filling tacos and dumplings and topping tater tots, pizzas, and nachos served at Diego’s, the Diego’s taco cart on Bowen’s Wharf, Wharf Fish House, and The Quencher, while traditional corned beef will be sliced and served at Wharf Southern Kitchen.
Next up: Look for my food guide for Parade Day pacing!
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